Recently, my usual order of decaf iced coffee was rudely interrupted. As my brain sent urgent directives on behalf of my ever-growing ravenous stomach, I heard the message come through loud and clear like an army drill sergeant. “EMERGENCY! 10 o’clock, chocolate croissant. Do Not proceed with coffee operation. I repeat, 10 o’clock, chocolate croissant!” Before I had time to think, my mouth had already been instructed to change the order and the rest was delicious history. In my own personal defense, being pregnant and hungry can often override normal brain functioning, casting away even the sanest behavior in pursuit of a craving. Even so, as I polished off the croissant, I couldn’t help but dwell on my impulse purchase, with bigger questions lurking about not just my own health and eating habits, but about those of our community and society at large.
As obesity and the many associated diseases such as diabetes, cancer and heart disease grip our nation, we are being forced to examine what we are eating in an almost unnatural way. Fear of these conditions becomes the motivating factor in choosing what to eat, as we cling to diet fads and religiously follow whatever the papers tell us is the “savior” for that week. Low-fat! Low-carb! Low-sodium! Low-cholesterol! These are the criteria we use when shopping nowadays, and yet Americans do not appear to be getting any thinner or healthier. The question of what to eat is an important one, but no less important than some other big questions which are inextricably linked to our eating habits and shape the canvas of our overall health. Why do I eat? When do I eat? How much do I eat? Where do I eat?
In today’s world, these seemingly simple questions have become difficult to answer, argues Michael Pollan, author of In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto. His eye-opening book examines the Western Diet, its cult of nutritionism, where our food really comes from, and the choices we can make to enlarge our sense of what it means to be “healthy”.
Among Pollan’s many suggestions regarding eating habits (all of which are highly worth reading), he advocates “eating meals”. This again sounds deceptively simple, but sadly in America, the institution of the traditional meal – eaten with people, at a table, consisting of homemade food (not convenience food) has suffered greatly over the past few generations. More commonly, people are now eating “on the go,” at their desks, or in front of the T.V. Snacking, which is responsible for the consumption of hundreds of extra calories a day, has entirely replaced meals for some and become a national pastime for others. Many of us don’t even snack because we are hungry, but rather due to boredom, for comfort or so just “because it’s there!” One study found that among 18-50 year old Americans, about a fifth of all eating now takes place in the car (which is outfitted with copious cup holders and compartments for this purpose). Of course, all of this quick food makes sense if we view food as simply “fuel”. If eating is nothing more than a means towards keeping our physical bodies moving, then why devote time and energy to cooking and mealtimes…time which could be spent on a myriad other, more important, activities? Unless there is actually inherent value in the creation and enjoyment of real food above and beyond our base nourishment. Writes Pollan, “It is at the dinner table that we socialize and civilize our children, teaching them manners and the art of conversation. At the dinner table, parents can determine portion sizes, model eating and drinking behavior, and enforce social norms about greed and gluttony and waste…The shared meal elevates eating from a mechanical process of fueling the body to a ritual of family and community, from mere animal biology to an act of culture.”
Aren’t these ideas in fact consistent with what we already should know to be true from the Torah? Halacha prohibits gluttony and advocates moderation, although sadly many kosher establishments and hotels seem to encourage defying this concept. We liken our table to an altar upon which our food is elevated; a blessing is made and we encourage our children to eat “like mentchen” at the table; the Mishna Berura likens one who eats while walking in the street to a dog, as he does not give proper respect to the act of eating nor to the food which was provided by G-d.
The Bilvavi Mishkan Evneh, (a beautiful modern work on improving one’s relationship and service to G-d), gives additional insights, citing eating as one example in which we must exercise hisbonanus – thoughtful reflection – before we even begin the act of eating. Consider, the author explains, Who designed us in a way that we should be hungry, and Who nourishes us and gives us our food. For this reason, he encourages eating slowly and deliberately, since eating quickly – even if for the purpose of returning to be involved with mitzvos – causes one to miss the point of life: to understand and improve our connection with our Creator. This is not to say that one cannot or should not enjoy the taste of food, but rather that this awareness changes the focus of our eating and, I would argue, heightens the pleasure of the experience. Pollan too recommends eating slowly and deliberately – not only to improve digestion and curb overeating (supposedly it takes 20 minutes before the brain gets the message that the stomach is full) – but in order “that knowledge and gratitude will inflect our pleasure at the table.”
The question of what specifically to eat is in today’s time a complicated one to answer, and one that is beyond the scope of this article (although highly processed foods laden with ingredients you cannot pronounce are probably worth avoiding). However, it is my hope that by first laying a foundation of healthy eating habits – both physically, mentally and spiritually – we can by begin to develop good eating habits in the broadest sense and take the first steps toward being healthier people.
Being healthy does not mean you have to skip dessert! The following recipe is a real summer treat during the grilling season – a perfect end to a BBQ or outdoor meal.
Grilled Rum-Glazed Pineapple
Delicious by itself, spectacular over vanilla ice-cream! This recipe will also work with ripe peaches, pitted and halved.
Yield: 6-8 servings
1 ripe pineapple, rind removed and trimmed, sliced into 8-10 even ½” rounds
½ cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup dark rum
1 tsp. lime zest
½ tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. vanilla
Mix together brown sugar, rum, lime zest, cinnamon and vanilla until well blended. Marinate pineapple slices in mixture for one hour, turning to coat once in a while.
Preheat grill to high. Oil the grill grates (using oil-soaked paper towels and tongs works well). Grill pineapple slices, about 3-4 minutes per side, brushing with marinade to create a sticky glaze. Remove from grill and drizzle a little of the remaining marinade on top of pineapple slices. Serve hot and enjoy!
Naomi Ross teaches Cooking Concepts, courses on cooking skills and kitchen management for the Jewish woman. For more information, visit her website at www.JewishCookingConcepts.com. Naomi can be reached at
.